How to make stained glass for windows

With this guide, you can turn any window at home into stained glass and it will help keep your home safe from prying eyes. The first step the creator started with, after having the idea of what you will love to put on your plain gas, you then need to make a drawing of the form you want on the glass and apply your materials for staining.

This stain glass idea will look better in a vintage window, it's a faux stained glass that works on any glass, and it's super easy to apply. This is another stained glass idea for a classic window. It's classic stained glass because you can stain as many small pieces as you want. The creator started by cutting the small pieces of glass he wanted to use as his stained glass window. You'll need a few simple materials that will help for this project, first you need flux, diamond cutter, copper foil, permanent marker, acetone thinner, and a few more supplies.

For this guide, you'll first need a stained glass pattern to work with, then some acrylic metallic paint, puffy fabric paint, a ruler, sharpie marker, and a few more items.

The making process is super easy. The steps for this guide are super easy and simple to follow. Taking a look at the image above, you can have an idea of what you will be making, you can decide to change the design if you please. This project can work as home decor, it's a stained glass window that hangs on the wall and can either be a real hanging glass or a decorative glass structure.

It's seamlessly easy and long-lasting. Here is a stained glass window that you can make with just acrylic paint, painter's tape, brushes, and any window you wish to stain. Once you have gotten your window glass ready, the rest of the steps are super easy to perform. It's called artistic stained glass not because it was done by an artist, but because of the design and concept.

Anyone, including a beginner, can make a stain effortlessly. Here is an easily stained glass window that will suit your needs. You'll need an E glue and an E glaze coat. There is a link on the video description that will help you with where you'll get the materials with ease.

This faux stained glass window idea will look great on a small dorm room window. You can spice up your college dorm room and make this faux stained glass window and it's super easy to build with friends. Here is an elegant stained glass window for an elegant large-size window. To make sure all of my pieces are fitting together snugly as intended, I build a frame around them see final picture. This also helps during the soldering process to make sure the piece remains flush and square. More than once I've created a piece that has unintentional funny slants and angles to it because I forgot this step!

The next step is to foil all of the pieces. This is fairly easy, and fairly time-consuming. The more care you spend foiling your pieces, the better the final soldered result will be. It's easy to let the copper foil tape get off-centered here and there, so pay special attention to keeping it all even. Once you've decided on the proper thickness of copper foil for your glass, peel the protective backing off of the foil.

Center you glass on the tape and press it securely along all cut edges. Rub the edges of the foil along the front and back edges of the glass with a firm instrument this soft pencil was no match for the hard corners of glass. Take care to make sure the tape is very securely adhered and even. If it gets bunched up, just tear off that section and start again. You can always overlap pieces of copper foil, but take care to align the edges or else they will show up when soldered!

Soldering happens in a series of steps. First tack together your pieces, then tin the seams, then add the bead. Flux must be applied to the copper foil before soldering. To tack solder the pieces in place, apply dots of flux to desired areas, and melt a small blob of solder on top. Because I was using two different widths of glass, I originally tacked and soldered the piece from the back side so that the front would be flush. Once all of the pieces are tacked together, you can tin the seams.

This just means you apply a thin, flat amount of solder to all of the seams, completely coating all of the copper foil. Be sure to apply flux to all of the seams first.

Bead soldering refers to a smooth, slightly rounded flow of solder used to create an aesthetically pleasing finish. You only need to apply the bead solder to the front of the finished piece, as the tin solder is sufficient to hold together the back. To create the bead solder, apply a new layer of flux to the tinned seams. Melt a larger amount of solder onto the seams. Run the soldering iron back and forth along a small distance to create a melted seam of solder.

Once a section is completely melted, gently lift the soldering iron up from the piece to create a smooth, shiny bead. This just takes practice.

I used lead channel to finish this piece, although it is not necessary. I cut the channel to fit around three edges of the piece and soldered them together at the edges, and soldered it to the glass pieces at every intersection. This works exactly like soldering the copper foil. To hang the piece, I soldered on two loops of tinned copper wire see second image. This was plenty of strength to hold the weight of this piece. Finally, clean your piece well with a mild detergent or glass cleaner, and display in a well-lit environment.

I hope these few basic steps are enough to encourage and inspire you to try your hand at stained glass. From here, it's just a small journey to creating all sorts of decorative and three-dimensional pieces. Have fun, and be sure to share your own creations in the comments below! Question 1 year ago. Beautiful piece! I LOVE the way the flower extends beyond the other glass.

I really want to learn stained glass, but the cost is quite high I'm nervous that if I put out the money for glass I won't be good at it or enjoy it and then I'll be out a ton of money. Is it possible to practice with less-expensive glass, maybe pieces of a broken bottle or plate or is there something specially formulated about the stained glass that it has to be used? Also, in regard to gloves I am wondering if you wear gloves to protect against the sharp edges, or from the heat of soldering?

Do you think Gloves in a Bottle would protect enough for doing stained glass or maybe liquid latex? Just a thought. Anyhew, thanks so much for sharing your post Hi hi, I was peeking on your post to refresh my memory. I've done some stained glass about 7 or 8 years ago and treated myself to all the bits for copper foiling but have never started a project.

As I was reading I saw the comment you made about gloves or some alternative. Solder as you would normally. Avoid problems with scoring your glass. There are lots of things that can go wrong with scoring your glass and most of these have to do with how you're standing, how much pressure you're using, and what sort of a cutter you're using.

Make sure that you're standing for long scores. This will give you better reach by utilizing your shoulder and upper body in the scoring motion.

For small scores, make sure that you stay seated so you can concentrate on following the marker score line. Use the right glass cutter. You do not want to use a five dollar cheap glass cutter as it doesn't cut clear, thin glass very well and it certainly won't cut much harder art glass.

Get one that it has a carbide head, because the oil lubrication is very useful. Make sure that you apply even pressure throughout your scoring. Remember you should hear a zipping sound as you score. Also good to remember: Opalescent glass requires more pressure, Cathedral glass requires less pressure. Deal with problems while soldering. Like scoring, soldering your glass can yield some problems if you're not doing it correctly. Make sure that the heat is correct, that the tip of the soldering iron is the right size for the project, and that the flux you're using is good for higher temperatures.

Use the right size soldering iron tip. Make sure that you know what the width of the glass you're working with is and have the tip and the copper spaced accordingly. The copper foil is what the solder actually binds to. Not going the whole way around could allow the foil to eventually start to separate from the glass. You need to actually solder the glass, in most cases, to the frame to prevent movement of the glass inside the frame. The back of the foil also is colored.

If you do not use the foil the entire way around the piece, you will see a color difference along the edges of the individual pieces when looking through the glass. Not Helpful 3 Helpful Tack solder the pieces together all connecting joints. Then remove the pins and you can move the piece around as you work. Allow the item to cool before touching - exercise caution as it is easy to get "caught up in the fun" and grab the piece prematurely.

Enjoy and be safe! Not Helpful 8 Helpful Drawing your own design just means that you come up with your own pattern to cut out, rather than using a pre-made pattern. You would just need a richly-colored black marker or pencil to make the outline.

Not Helpful 11 Helpful You solder them the same as you do the glass pieces. You only need a dot though. Use the tip in a circular motion. Not Helpful 9 Helpful Cutting of glass is required - as performed in the above mentioned technique, anyway. Perhaps you could buy a pre-made stained glass window. Not Helpful 16 Helpful Yes, soldering is necessary. There isn't any other way to connect the pieces of glass with end results that look the same.

Not Helpful 1 Helpful 7. You purchase the sheets pre-stained. The color is added to the glass during its manufacturing process. Not Helpful 12 Helpful Are you cutting the different colored pieces out of different sheets of glass? There are certain paints and stains that can alter the color of stained glass somewhat, but if you are a beginner you should stick with the colors of glass already available to purchase.

So, yellow parts are cut out of yellow glass, blue parts cut out of blue glass, etc. Put them in an area where they won't be subjected to strong wind take them down if there is going to be a severe storm with high winds. Also, wax the panel well before hanging it outdoors. The wax will protect the solder and or lead from oxidation caused by rain.

Not Helpful 1 Helpful 3. Yes or else the backside will look a little off and it won't be held together as strongly as it needs to be if you don't do this. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 5. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. You can break the glass by placing the scored portion over an edge and hitting downward with your hand. Helpful 2 Not Helpful 0.

Practice is the key to making really good stained glass projects. Your first few times will probable yield some less than stellar creations, but that's okay! You'll learn new things each time. Helpful 1 Not Helpful 1. Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. Don't start your first project using run-down tool's provided in class. I recommend splurging on your own glass cutter and soldering iron.

Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Do not score too deeply. This will cause the glass to break awkwardly. Helpful 36 Not Helpful 8. Always protect your eyes and fingers when cutting and soldering stained glass.

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