Ultegra chain installation

Normally when I read about chain failures, my first reaction is that it is likely installation error. In this case, being my own chain, I know that's not the case. Post 8 of 12 views. Then I'm stumped. Sounds like a QA error at the manufacturer to me, then. Post 9 of 12 views. My own opinion is that Shimano may have had a batch of bad chains. When you google Ultegra chain failures, you see a bunch of people that are having chains failing due to cracked side plates.

This is exactly what happened to mine. I haven't inspected the rest of the links to see if it was just one link, or if several links are cracked. It seems that all the broken chains people have posted about are failing in the same exact way, and on the same side the inside of the chain. Maybe its a manufacturing problem, maybe not. Post 10 of 12 views. Not to hijack this thread, but which Wipperman link did you use?

Will the standard 10s link work for the chain? Bell Head. Post 11 of 12 views. That's what I use. Post 12 of 12 views. I've always just used the standard Wipperman link intended for Shimano compatible chains. Never had a problem with shifting performance or reliability yet. Di2 Installation Guides. Mount the derailleur to the frame While these derailleurs are all direct mount ready, you can use them with a standard mount frame no problem.

The image below should help you identify the mount on your frame Standard mount On a standard mount frame you install the derailleur with the B2-link plate attached. You will need a 5 mm hex wrench to do this and the recommended torque is 8 — 10 Nm. Direct mount Is your frame equipped with a direct rear derailleur mount? Set the end adjustment screw In order to finalize the derailleur setup make sure the rest of the system is installed and make sure you can shift both derailleurs.

Shift the front derailleur to the small chainring. Shift the rear derailleur to the fifth sprocket. You can now adjust the position of the rear derailleur using the shift buttons: Press the [ X ] button while also turning the crank to move the guide pulley towards the 4th sprocket. Keep doing this until the chain makes contact with the 4th gear and a subtle noise is heard.

Note that while you are in adjustment mode the guide pulley will overrun slightly and then move back a bit. When checking the position of the guide pulley and gear, make sure the derailleur has come to a stop.

Shift the rear derailleur to the largest sprocket easiest gear. Now use a size 2 hex wrench to tighten the low side stopper bolt until it just touches the low side stopper. This is the bolt with an L next to it. This image should clarify things a bit: If not, just leave a comment or send me a message To check whether your limit setting is correct, shift the rear derailleur down three gears and then back to the largest sprocket again.

Connect and share knowledge within a single location that is structured and easy to search. I'm replacing an exact same Shimano 11 speed chain, the cassette is Shimano Ultegra T. There are 54 links that look like. What size of chain should I order : or ? I'm going to take the old chain off and then use the method. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that one complete link one inch, -- one inner and one outer half-link overlaps. It doesn't really matter -- either way, you'll be shortening the chain this is true for almost any regular bicycle drivetrain.

So I'd order whichever is cheaper; You can't really splice 11 speed links back into a 11 speed chain reliably, so having spare links on hand doesn't justify buying the longer chain.

The easiest way to size the chain is simply to count links and match it with the oldchain. Then, break it appropriately and install on the bike. You can do this by putting both of the chains on a piece of newspaper, then pinching the links together to count them.

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